The Biblioteca Joanina is the most spectacular library in Portugal and one of the great baroque interiors of Europe. It was commissioned by King João V — the gold of Brazil paid for it — and built between 1717 and 1728 on the upper terrace of the University of Coimbra, which traces its roots to 1290 and is among the oldest universities in the world. Behind walls more than two metres thick, three lavishly decorated halls open one into the next like the naves of a basilica, lined with two storeys of gilded shelving in exotic jacaranda wood brought from Brazil, beneath painted ceilings and a portrait of the king who built it. The shelves hold over 60,000 rare volumes, printed between the 16th and 18th centuries, on theology, law, medicine, philosophy and science.
The Joanina has guardians most libraries would envy: a small colony of bats that lives in the building and emerges at night to feed on the moths and other insects that would otherwise eat the paper and bindings. Each evening the reading tables are covered with leather sheets to protect them, and each morning the covers are cleared — a 300-year-old conservation routine that still works. The thick walls and a heavy teak door hold the temperature and humidity remarkably steady, which is why books here have survived centuries that destroyed collections elsewhere.
There is no library-only ticket: the Biblioteca Joanina is visited as part of the combined University of Coimbra ticket, alongside the Royal Palace (the Paço das Escolas), the gilded St Michael's Chapel and the university's historic museums. Entry to the library itself is in strict 20-minute slots for small groups, so the time on your ticket is the time you go in; the other spaces you can explore before, after, or across two days. The whole university hill — the Alta and the Rua da Sofia below — was inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 2013.